Korea has established its reputation in various mediums, but none other is as etched into the history as their hats in Joseon period (1392-1910). Historically speaking, Koreans loved their
(Hats), Westerners that have ventured as far as Korea at that time, admired the variety of Korean hat selection and often dubbed it as a hat country. In Joseon period no young fellow Korean man could be taken seriously without its Gat. It was a marker for: style, social-ranking, marital status, education. In short, it was a wearable Insta/tinder bio.
Heuklip (흑립)- You are in luck! This man is an aristocrat or at least from a fairly high echelon of society. Pay close attention to the width of the hat brim, as it turns out wider the better. Once you found sufficiently wide-brimmed hatted man, don’t let him go easy, he may just be the full-package.
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Ikseongwan (익선관)- Jackpot! A king himself, or a Crown Prince at least. This is one special man with some special tricks in-store. This man will most certainly be rich and powerful, but be careful, this kind is not known to be very loyal to one woman, often entertaining a good number of concubines.
Jurip (주립)- This snazzy bright number belongs to a military man. Make sure you play close attention to the accessories and adornments on the hat as they indicate military rank and seniority. This could be a perfect man for those that admire good male figure and enjoy long-distance relationships.
Samo (사모)- Sporting this trendy attire is almost without a doubt a government official. He is the reliable sort, has a 9-5 job, average and stable income. He could be a man of your dreams even if a little boring at times.
This Is What All The Hats In Your Favorite Historical K Dramas Mean
Bokkeon (복건)- This hat could either be worn by children or scholars. If you see a grown man with this headgear, pay close attention. He is most likely to be bright, witty and well-read, yet a little hard to attain as he spends most of the time pouring over books.
Pae Raengi (패랭이)- This straw hat will most likely be worn by a farmer or a commoner. He is likely to be quite literally down to earth kind of guy. No intrigues here, just pure love and idyllic life away from the court drama. A perfect option for ladies looking to settle-down and raise a family.
Don’t judge a man by its cover they say and since we are no longer in Joseon period, we will have to make our calculated assumptions on their online presence instead. However, you can keep this guide in mind when you watch one of the many Joseon period K-Dramas (My Sassy Girl, The Kingdom, Scholar Who Walks The Night, Queen for Seven Days, Moon Embracing The Sun) and let us know whichA big-budget show about “zombies of the Joseon era” was enough to entice viewers from around the world to check out Netflix’s first Korean original series “Kingdom, ” but it wasn’t just the walking dead that caught their attention. The broad-brimmed hats that are worn by almost all the men that appear in the series were the real scene stealers.
What Are All The Different Kinds Of Hats In The Korean Horror Series, Kingdom?
Written by Kim Eun-hee, who wrote tvN’s “Signal” (2016), and directed by Kim Seong-hun, who was behind the 2016 film “Tunnel, ” the Netflix hit is a six-episode thriller series that revolves around a zombie plague that causes turmoil in the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Starring actors Ju Ji-hoon, Bae Doo-na, Ryu Seung-ryong and Kim Sang-ho, the series begins with the king catching a strange disease that apparently turns him into a “zombie” who is only active at night. The plague eventually spreads across the whole country. Those bitten by a zombie crave blood at night and hide deep in the mountains or in dark areas underground during the day. Meanwhile, the survivors of the plague rely on the crown prince (Ju) who is both the victim of a conspiracy and the leader of another, all while saving his people from the plague.
Viewers of the series, however, could not help themselves from being distracted by the “amazing hats” worn by the characters. One Twitter post following the show’s premiere in January read, “Netflix’s ‘Kingdom’ is so damn good. And the best part of the show, of course, is the hats.”
In the series, men are shown wearing a variety of hats, all in different shapes, sizes and colors depending on where they are going or what their social status is. Women, meanwhile, seldom wear hats; instead, they are shown with different hairstyles.
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In an interview with the JoongAng Ilbo, costume design director Kwon Yoo-jin, who was in charge of the characters’ costumes in the series, said, “Since ‘Kingdom’ is a fictional series about zombies, we did not specify the time period, but the series is set around the middle of Joseon era.”
Actor Ryu Seung-ryong wears jeongjagwan, a hat worn by upper-class scholars at home, top. Actor Ryu and other government officials wore round hats, called samo during work, above.
From commoners to noble scholars, nearly all men of the Joseon era wore hats. According to “Joseon Era Hat Dictionary” author Yang Jin-sook, a professor in the department of textile design at Hanyang University, these hats were not usually worn for practical reasons, such as protecting someone from the sun. Instead, they reflected Confucian values — formality, authority and dignity — which was the foundations of politics at the time.
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According to Jeong Jae-hak, director of liberal arts at the Cheonan Museum, who was one of the organizers of an exhibition titled “Hat, Perfection of Dignity, ” wearing a hat was a sign of dignity.
“From a philosophical perspective, people at the time considered their hair to be equivalent to the mountains and the sky. Mountains were considered ‘high’ and ‘honorable’ so wearing a hat was like having this honor bestowed upon their heads. From a practical perspective, hats were meant to show one’s social class. Just by looking at the hats, people could distinguish whether a person was a girl or a boy, or a high-class scholar or a commoner who worked in the fields.”
People from different social class wore different forms of headgear. Society at the time was divided in four main classes: yangban (nobility and aristocrats), jungin (middle class), pyeongmin (commoners) and cheonmin (outcasts).
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Eventually, hats came to have different sizes, shapes and purposes — there were indoor and outdoor hats, as well as hats for work and others worn for funerals or special ceremonies.
Saeang Hair: Actor Bae Doo-na, a doctor’s apprentice, has her hair tied back and braided with a red ribbon, typically worn by court ladies.
The most well-known hat of the era, and probably the most common one featured in “Kingdom, ” is the heukrip (black hat), also commonly called gat, which was usually worn outdoors by aristocrats. Commoners or middle class people wore a different variation called paeraengi or pyeongnyangja, which were made of split bamboo and worn while working in the fields.
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Characterized by a wide, black brim with a cylinder top made of horse hair, gat went through different variations over the years. Discussions about the hat’s shape were first made during King Seongjong’s rule (1457-94), as written in the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. According to the annals, the gat was characterized by a “round top and broad brim.” But by the end of King Yeonsangun’s reign (1494-1506), the hat began to have a cylinder-shaped top. The height of the top and the brim, however, changed over time, from short to tall. Eventually, the shape that people are familiar with today was worn during King Yeongjo and King Jeongjo’s rule (1724-1800).
Aristocrats also embellished their gat with ivory, agate or bamboo beads as gat straps, which became a symbol of extravagance and wealth.
In “Kingdom, ” Ryu’s character and other officials in the palace are seen wearing jeongjagwan, an indoor headdress with multiple peaks that resembles a mountain, or samo, a round hat. Both were influenced by hats worn by Chinese officials. Jeongjagwan, made of horse hair and lacquered in black, was worn by upper-class men at home instead of gat, which were considered inconvenient to wear at home.
Gat (a Traditional Korean Hat)
During work, however, government officials had to wear samo, a black hat with a low front and a high back, as part of their uniform. Samo were worn by officials since the Goryeo era (918-1392). The surface of the hat is made of horsehair and bamboo and covered with sandpaper. White versions of samo also existed, but these were worn during periods of mourning someone’s death. Middle class and commoners were often allowed to wear them during weddings.
Perhaps one of the most eye-catching hats in the series are those worn by military officials. Actor Jung Suk-won, a high-ranking military official, wears jeollip, which, depending on the type, is made of fur and wool, and sometimes adorned with a peacock feather on the top and an amber-beaded strap.
Civil and military officers also wore hats called jurip, lacquered in red and adorned with a tiger’s whiskers. They often matched their military uniforms called yungbok. By the end of the
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