Over the past year that I’ve been blogging and adopting a more comprehensive skincare approach, I’ve had questions from family, friends and readers about the Korean skincare approach. Those that are new to it can find the sheer number of products and steps to be quite overwhelming and confusing. So I figure it’s about time I provide a more in-depth look at the Korean skincare routine.
For the next few weeks I will spotlight different skincare steps/categories with a breakdown of what they are, their function, why it’s important to use, the order in which it should be applied and some product recommendations. At the end of this series, I will provide a final post with general skincare tips/guidelines that should hopefully sum up all the basic information you need to help you get started with your own effective skincare routine.
This is a hugely important step to have in your skincare routine, especially so if you wear makeup, sunscreen or have been outdoors. A double cleanse essentially means going in with an oil-based cleanser first and then finishing off with a second water-based cleanser.
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During the day, dead skin cells, makeup, sebum, and dirt can settle into your pores and become congested. This can cause all sorts of skin issues from acne, pimples, blackheads, whiteheads, inflammation etc. Air pollution also contains free radicals which is a big cause of skin ageing – they can break down cell structures including elastin and collagen in your skin (which is what keeps your skin plump), resulting in wrinkles and sagging, dull skin. This is why it’s important to double-cleanse; to ensure you thoroughly remove everything that is harmful to your skin and create a clean canvas for the rest of your skincare steps to be absorbed.
Oil cleansers: these comes in liquid oil form which you apply to dry skin. Once you add a little water, the cleanser emulsifies and turns into a milky lather that you rinse off.
– Balm cleansers: my favourite type. Solid form of an oil cleanser but are soft, creamy and turn into an oil as you rub it onto your skin. These are very useful for travelling.
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– Cream cleansers: thicker, creamy consistency. I’m not as fond of these but are good for those with dry or sensitive skin since they are more moisturising.
– Cleasing waters: aka micellar water. These are applied to a cotton pad and then used to wipe makeup off. These first became big in France and have now gained popularity globally but I’m not keen on this method as it involves going through a lot of cotton pads and I find it more time-consuming too.
Face wipes: this is a very popular way to remove makeup as its quick and easy. I personally love the Simple brand of makeup wipes and used them for years before I discovered balm cleansers. I wouldn’t recommend them to be used everyday as they involve more harsh tugging and wiping of the skin, but they are great for travel and those tired, lazy days.
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Note: there are a variety of foam, gel or solid cleansers and everyone has their preference. However, one thing to remember – a product that foams and lathers up more, doesn’t necessarily make it better or more effective than one that doesn’t. Like shampoo, body wash and toothpaste, bubbles and foam are just added according to consumer demand/expectation. They don’t strengthen the efficacy of a product.
Exfoliating is one of my favourite steps when my skin is looking dull and rough and follows after the double-cleansing method. This is the most effective way of removing dead skin cells (that cause flaky, uneven skin), dirt and oil that build up over time and giving you immediate results for a clearer, brighter and smoother complexion. They can also help reduce the appearance of large pores and diminish those pesky blackheads.
Exfoliating is usually a 1-2x a week treatment and not to be used everyday otherwise you run the risk of over-exfoliating and damaging your skin barrier. (If your skin is more sensitive, reduce the frequency to 1-2x a month). There are two types of exfoliators: chemical and mechanical.
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Note: I usually use 1 mechanical exfoliator (a scrub) and 1 chemical exfoliator (peeling gel) per week. AHA and BHA liquids are slightly different as they aren’t washed off like other chemical exfoliators, should be applied after washing your face and using toner, and can be used daily once you’ve built up a tolerance for them.
Product recommendation: Skinfood Black Sugar Mask Wash Off, TonyMoly Floria Brightening Peeling Gel, Neogen Bio-Peel Gauze Peeling Wine, Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid.Softer smoother skin? Check. Affordable price point? Check. Gentle on the skin? Check. A delight to use? Check (but I might be biased here).
Keep reading to see my tried and true K-beauty exfoliator top picks, which skin types they’re best suited for, and what ingredients to look for when comparing different products!
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AHA? BHA? PHA? You might be seeing these letters on the products and wondering what the heck they stand for and how they solve your skin issues.
Well when it comes to exfoliating there are only so many ingredients that get the job done, and each work in slightly different ways:
If you’re looking to improve skin tone and skin texture, these are the ingredients you want to see in your exfoliator! While they all work by removing the top layer of dead cells off your skin, there are still differences between each one:
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Glycolic Acid is the most common AHA for a good reason: it’s the most well researched, effective, and strongest exfoliating acid! Thanks to its small size, it can go deeper into the skin and help increase collagen production.
Lactic Acid is the second most proven AHA, and a little gentler on the skin due to its bigger size! It actually helps moisturize the skin, 4 and at 12%, also increase skin thickness and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Citric Acid is one of the gentlest AHA, and while it can still increase skin thickness and hydrating glycosaminoglycan levels on the skin, it takes much longer to see results.
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If you struggle with pore sizes, blackheads, acne, and other common issues associated with combination or oily skin, the oil soluble BHA is what you want.
Salicylic Acid is the most common BHA, and it’s fantastic at helping remove the dead skin cells stuck in our pores, which helps prevent blackheads and decrease the appearance of pore sizes. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that will be helpful for acne-prone skin.
Betaine Salicylate is twice as gentle as salicylic acid, since it combines the former with the moisturizing betaine. This is a common BHA in Korean skincare products due to their stricter regulations with Salicylic Acid.
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Willow Bark Extract isn’t technically a BHA, but it does contain salicylates, which is closely related to salicylic acid. It’s not as effective, but it also contains some astringent and antiseptic flavonoids.
Think of them as the gentler cousins of AHA – similar properties, but with larger molecules which means they don’t penetrate (irritate) the skin as deeply. They frequently double as an antioxidant and can also help improve skin barrier function and hydration.
Gluconolactone is the most commonly used PHA, and is so gentle on the skin that you can use it on rosacea skin or post cosmetic procedure treatment!9
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Lactobionic Acid is another PHA that’s very similar in function to gluconolactone: gently smooths while moisturizing and improving the skin barrier. One study even found its results comparable to glycolic acid!
Sugar, seed powders, tea leaf powders, and rice powders are the most frequently used in K-beauty facial scrubs. Compared to the rougher shell powders *cough* St. Ive’s *cough*, these are gentler on the skin and assuming you’re not scrubbing too enthusiastically, won’t cause micro tears in your skin.
Enzymes are another group of exfoliants to look for that can also help break down and loosen the dead skin cells. Though technically a physical exfoliant, there’s minimal feelings of grittiness. Common ones include pineapple extracts, pumpkin extracts, and papain.
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The K-beauty alternative to popular Western BHA toners like the Paula's Choice BHA Liquid, this has a light elegant texture and I love the addition of niacinamide which can also help with pore size. I found this one gentle enough for daily use, with a focus on my t-zones to help keep my pores clear.
For me this is the Korean version of the Alpha-H Liquid Gold. No frills, minimal formula, but gets the job done. It's a little stronger than most other Korean exfoliators, but still gentler than most Western brands, in that I don't actually feel any tingling or stinging on application. What I love most about the Krave Kale-lalu-yAHA is how I always wake up with radiant skin when I use this the night before!
It's like having AHA and BHA in one product, and the good news is that this gentle exfoliator can be used regularly thanks to all the supporting soothing ingredients. This one does a little bit of everything, so it's is a good one if you don't have any specific major issues to address. But don't expect it
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