Korean Beauty Skincare Essence

Korean Beauty Skincare Essence

As a wise Ben Stiller character once said, Moisture is the essence of wetness, and wetness is the essence of beauty. He wasn't wrong, but there is one question he didn't address that's come up an awful lot in the last couple of years: What, exactly, is an essence, the K-beauty staple that goes after your toner and before your serum, if not just another unnecessary extra step in your already perfectly adequate skin-care routine?

Essences are, as Soko Glam founder and K-beauty expert Charlotte Cho explains, the very heart of the Korean skin-care routine. They're lightweight but packed with concentrated hydrating ingredients, aiding skin repair and cell turnover that will promote smoother, brighter skin with regular use, says Cho. Think of it as a pre-moisturizer moisturizer that balances skin.

What

Though they've become particularly buzzy in the past few years, essences are not new: They've played an integral role in comprehensive K-beauty routines for a long time, and Western brands are now (wisely) getting in on the game, too. Caudalie recently launched its Vinoperfect Concentrated Brightening Essence, which combines the brand's soothing signature grape water with a strong dose of glycolic acid to obliterate the dead skin cells that leave skin dull. Fresh just came out with the Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence, a potent antioxidant solution that uses fermented black tea, another K-beauty staple, to leave skin smooth, hydrated, and more luminous over time.

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And then there are Cho's go-tos, the O.G.s of the genre, like Missha's Time Revolution First Treatment Essence Intensive Moist. This water-like essence is a cult favorite among skin-care lovers because it's well-known to repair damage and even out skin tone in just a few weeks, Cho says.

Another Cho favorite, which has scores of diehard fans on Reddit's SkincareAddiction, too: the Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence from CosRx, which, just as the name suggests, is 96% snail secretion filtrate. Think of this like vitamins for your face, since it's loaded with replenishing and revitalizing nutrients to help prevent and repair damage, Cho explains. (Don't fear the snail factor. Snail mucin has the ability to repair everything from dry patches to acne breakouts, while also helping zap hyperpigmentation, she says — and who wouldn't want that?)

So while it might be a stretch to say that you're missing out on the single most important step of your skin-care ritual if you've yet to add one of these cult-favorite formulas to your beauty routine... you are certainly missing out on the

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The easiest way to define essence is first to figure out what it is not. This is not toner, but you wouldn't be blamed for thinking that it is. They've got a similar slip to them. But unlike your drugstore bottle of witch hazel, essences by and large come in beautiful (often glass) bottles that look excellent on your countertop. They are also not meant for cleaning. With higher doses of active ingredients, essence is meant to deliver those deep into the skin after you've gone through the process of cleansing (two or three times, if you're thorough). It's got your hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and other natural extracts for an immediately hydrated and comforted feel, according to Janet Pardo, senior vice president of product development at Clinique, who helped create Clinique's Even Better Essence Lotion. It also balances pH once you've stripped the skin of oils. This is what you add to make you feel like you again.

But at the same time, essence isn't a serum, which comes in a smaller vial at higher concentrations. “There's only so much you can pack into an essence or a watery lotion, ” Pardo said. That doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. Women in Asian markets have sworn by it for decades, Pardo continues, and now that they're filtering into the American market, technology is only getting better. Thought it may be of interest: As essences make their way stateside, some companies have blurred the lines between essences and toners with 'treatment' toners/essences/lotions meant to take care of two steps at once. Korean experts still advise using separate products for optimal results.

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Application is also a different ballgame. Instead of dabbing some on a cotton pad and swiping over your face like you might with a treatment lotion or toner (or massaging it in like you might with a serum or oil), essences have their own special technique. Namely, that you pat or press it into your face with your hands, starting at your chin and moving upward, says Dr. Nadine Pernodet, who helped develop Estée Lauder's Micro Essence.

Beyond the simple feeling of hydration and luxury, there's an anti-aging element to essence as well. Adding moisture to the skin at an early age can help skin stay healthy and plump longer. “Asian women tend to have a thinner moisture barrier than Caucasian women and are therefore more prone to moisture loss, ” Dr. Pernodet said, also explaining why Asian markets have had the product for so long. “Essence helps create a stronger, more resistant skin foundation for longterm improvement to the look of skin, ”

That being said, essence isn't necessarily the end-all, be-all product. “This product isn't loved by all skintypes, ” Pardo added. “If you've got oily skin, acne, or any issue with overproduction of sebum, this isn't really for you. The consumer who likes this product has drier skin—maybe they over-cleanse, but that's mostly because the market isn't mature here yet. But it's growing! So we'll see what comes out next, ”

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