, Ohio - Emerging from the ashes of a thousand barbecued dinners cooked at the dearly departed Seoul Hot Pot, Rising Grill Korean Barbecue's phoenix-like arrival should spread joy to all who like their barbecue cooked table-top -- and with kimchi.
The dilapidated outside still looks pretty much the same. It's that unmistakable shabby midtown shotgun shack chic. But the inside has been painted the colors of sweet fresh papaya and ginger. And the décor of old menus and faded pizza posters left up on the walls from restaurants way past have been replaced by flat screen monitors with non-stop K-Pop videos so blindingly bright and shiny, even you may have to wear shades.
There's brand-new gas grills at the four barbecue-it-yourself tables, and new exhaust hoods, though they're not exhaustive enough to expunge the soft scent of smoke and garlic and spice that settles around you like an aromatic stole as you're seated at your group's personal barbecue table.
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I'll not review the basic what-you-do-and how-you-do -it step-by-step of Korean barbecue. The well-versed and helpful staff will guide you as you cook. They'll be there, too, as you wend your way through post-grilling procedures involving curly leaf lettuce wraps and all the little bowls of banchan, literally side dishes in Korean, you received after ordering.
What I will tell you is that if you order any of the Chef's Showcase Combination BBQs -- including S2, like we did -- you will be served a vast platter of raw carnivorous joy. Sweetly marinated thick beef short rib and beautifully marbled beef rib eye, spicy pork tenderloin and pretty pink slices of chicken breast that will soften and sizzle before your eyes on your table top grill. Turn only once while you're cooking for maximum tenderness and out of respect for the artfully carved and cared-for meat.
You also get several bowls of fluffy gossamer-textured steamed egg custard and a small metal cauldron of soon tofu. It's a bewitching soup of soft blocks of snowy subtle tofu in a broth comprised mostly of fiery kimchi, the spicy, garlicky, fermented cabbage that is perhaps Korea's best-known and most beloved culinary export. The soup also includes a handful of little-neck clams and shrimp to add a diversion from the glasses-fogging heat of the dish.
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Don't forget the banchan. There's about 15, including more kimchi made from daikon and zucchini, other vegetables vinegared and seasoned, fishcakes, tofu, and some very shiny salty whole-dried anchovies. The dishes change with the weather and owner-chef Byung Im's whims, reflecting the kitchen's more refined take on spicing.
The S2 provides enough food to satisfy six, or stupefy the three of us who attempted to take it on one recent sultry evening. Actually only two of us went limp. The third, in finer food fettle, soldiered on until all that was left was enough grilled meat, rice (did I forget to mention the very good short-grain rice earlier on?), soon tofu and banchan to take home and feed a family of four. Just FYI, you can also scale the grilling experience by ordering single meat entrees.
Yes, there are more human-scaled dishes on the menu. One of them is not the Bulnak Jungol. An enormous tureen celebrating Korean surf and turf, it combines thin slices of mirin-marinated rib eye tangled with whole octopi and vegetables in a soup that celebrates multiple environments. The broth is both earthy and briny and full of umami taste. Now is the time to use those scissors you are given along with chopsticks and metal tongs for grilling. They make short work of cutting your octopus into tender snippets of wonderful texture and mild taste.
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DolSot BiBim Bap is classically perfect. The sesame oil-coated super-heated dolsot stone pot, refreshingly sized for a single serving, cooks the rice on the bottom to a perfect golden brown crunch. All the other elements, basically an assortment of fresh banchan bunched together with a sunny side up egg used to meld everything together, combine in a consummately satisfying welter of fresh tastes and textures.
Appetizers can be shared, or not. Depending on how greedy you are for the perfectly deep-fried Chicken Wings with a sticky spicy-sweet crunch coating, it's not too hard to polish off five at a time if you're devoted to the cause. And we'll finish with the coup de grace of a Kimchi pancake. About as big as a dinner plate, and sliced into easily handled wedges, it's a sharable pleasure made light with rice flour, spicy with kimchi, and irresistible with a dipping sauce rich in the flavors of sesame, soy and rice vinegar.
As for dessert, there isn't any. That's a good thing. At the finish of a meal here, you should be ready for nothing but a nice little nap. To that end, Rising Grill thoughtfully provides a drink of Soojong Gwa, a digestif made with cinnamon, ginger and sugar to sooth you on your way.
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Bar Service: Several Korean beers that pair well with the heft and heat of the food, and sojus, drinks reminiscent of watered-down slightly sweetened vodka, plus Japanese sake.
Kimchi pancake, about as big as a dinner plate, and sliced into easily handled wedges, it's a sharable pleasure made light with rice flour, spicy with kimchi, and irresistible with a dipping sauce rich in the flavors of sesame, soy and rice vinegar.
The four different meats served with the S2 include, marinated beef short-rib, marinated chicken, marinated pork and marinated thin slices of beef rib eye.
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There's brand-new gas grills at the four barbecue-it-yourself tables, and new exhaust hoods, though they're not exhaustive enough to expunge the soft scent of smoke and garlic and spice that settles around you
DolSot BiBim Bap is classically perfect. The sesame oil-coated super-heated dolsot stone pot, refreshingly sized for a single serving, cooks the rice on the bottom to a perfect golden brown crunch. All the other elements, basically an assortment of fresh banchan bunched together with a sunny side up egg used to meld everything together, combine in a consummately satisfying welter of fresh tastes and textures.
Appetizers can be shared, or not. Depending on how greedy you are for the perfectly deep-fried Chicken Wings with a sticky spicy-sweet crunch coating, it's not too hard to polish off five at a time if you're devoted to the cause. And we'll finish with the coup de grace of a Kimchi pancake. About as big as a dinner plate, and sliced into easily handled wedges, it's a sharable pleasure made light with rice flour, spicy with kimchi, and irresistible with a dipping sauce rich in the flavors of sesame, soy and rice vinegar.
As for dessert, there isn't any. That's a good thing. At the finish of a meal here, you should be ready for nothing but a nice little nap. To that end, Rising Grill thoughtfully provides a drink of Soojong Gwa, a digestif made with cinnamon, ginger and sugar to sooth you on your way.
The 5 Best Korean Spots In Cleveland
Bar Service: Several Korean beers that pair well with the heft and heat of the food, and sojus, drinks reminiscent of watered-down slightly sweetened vodka, plus Japanese sake.
Kimchi pancake, about as big as a dinner plate, and sliced into easily handled wedges, it's a sharable pleasure made light with rice flour, spicy with kimchi, and irresistible with a dipping sauce rich in the flavors of sesame, soy and rice vinegar.
The four different meats served with the S2 include, marinated beef short-rib, marinated chicken, marinated pork and marinated thin slices of beef rib eye.
Top Spots For Barbecue In Cleveland
There's brand-new gas grills at the four barbecue-it-yourself tables, and new exhaust hoods, though they're not exhaustive enough to expunge the soft scent of smoke and garlic and spice that settles around you
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